Country Clothing – What to Wear
Of all the mails and letters received at the Priory, it’s the subject of clothing that most arises. Whether a Friend of the Priory is a countryperson, angler, gardener or just (like many of us) someone who wishes to be a bit more individual, the idea of wearing traditional clothing is something that allows us to be different. It helps us to communicate that we are traditionalists and that we don’t want to follow the crowd.
The thought of being told what to wear by whoever sets the latest fashions is like resigning our right of choice. The masses may be content to be part of the homogenous flock, but we are different. We take pride in being unique. Eccentricity in our dress and behaviour allows us this freedom. It’s fun being like this. Others might not understand, but together we know that traditional clothing is timeless, special and made to last. If clothing gives us the image we desire, then wearing traditional clothing is like proudly waving a flag in the face of the shell-suited masses.
First know yourself, and who you want to be
Clothing of any type should be an outward communication of who you are. There may be retro fashions for traditional clothing, but generally speaking if it’s traditional then it’s out of fashion – at least for the majority of people. Wearing clothes that are different to those worn by everybody else (in our case, everybody else in a town, rather than the country) will lead to a few raised eyebrows or snide comments. You have to be sure of yourself to stand tall, but in doing so you will stand out. Be proud to be quirky. Just think - if everyone were a sheep, looking at his or her feet and following the flock, then the world would never produce any leaders or inspirational role models. It’s those people with the confidence to stay true to their beliefs and forge ahead to become the person they want to be that make the biggest individual impact. If traditional clothing helps you to do this, then so be it. But it’s the strength of character that counts.
Why wear traditional clothing?
Traditional Country Attire is clothing that allows us to express our personality as someone with deep-rooted country values. It helps us to demonstrate our affinity with the fashions of an earlier age and communicate our individuality. Comfortable, durable and functional, traditional country clothing helps us to feel proud of who we are and tells others that we are of the countryside. Most comfortable in natural fabrics, we rejoice in a natural environment.
Growing up on the outskirts of a village, and being surrounded by fields and woods, meant that I developed a strong sense of identity as a countryman. I was also a loner who felt more at home with people who were two generations older than me – the ‘old boy’ farmers, gamekeepers, poachers, stockmen and retired estate staff – most of whom were in their seventies and eighties. I would emulate their style of dress and admire the way that they would insist upon comfort and durability over fashion, and yet still look resplendent.
I first wore traditional clothing at the age of 8. My school held a Victorian festival and all the pupils and teachers attended in traditional dress. We had an entire day in character, with the ‘disgusting little children’ sitting straight-backed at little wooden desks, writing with chalk onto slate tablets and being thoroughly petrified by the sight of the headmistress’ cane. I enjoyed the experience so much that I insisted on wearing my flat cap and short trousers at school until I was 11 years old. Later trips to the Blists Hill and Black Country museums saw me recreate my traditional attire and I insisted on scouring local jumble sales and charity shops to increase my range of traditional hats and clothing. I would spend hours watching period films such as Hobson’s Choice, The History of Mr Polly, The 39 Steps and The Hound of the Baskervilles, if only to get a glimpse of the fine clothing being worn and the image of England’s past.
Wearing traditional clothing at such an early age could never be described as an act of escapism. I was too young and had too small a view of the world to know what I was escaping from. No. I just loved wearing old-fashioned clothes. ‘Make pretend?’ Perhaps. But I knew what I felt comfortable in.
My childhood influences have stayed with me to this day. They have defined the person I have become and therefore the image that I want others to see when they think of me. My choice of clothing isn’t contrived; it’s a natural thing. I will always select a pair of sturdy leather boots over some modern velco-fastened trainers, a hand-knitted jumper instead of a Puffa jacket. These decisions are instinctive, they just ‘feel right’, and are to do with more than aesthetics. I just know what I feel comfortable in. For others it’s different.
Some people may be beginning their journey of self-discovery and are testing different outfits and ways of living. Good for them, I say, as one thing will lead to another and soon they may find themselves as significantly different but happier people. Others have a sense of respect for quality tailoring; some just like to ‘dress up’ for fun or to escape the monotony of their existence. There’s no right or wrong reason for wearing traditional clothes – be they Edwardian tweeds, a Victorian stiff-collared morning suit or Roman battle dress. But I draw the line at Caveman’s furs…
The criteria for selecting traditional clothing
First and foremost, country clothing has to be functional. As a city-dwelling friend of mine once said, ‘The problem with the countryside is that it’s cold, wet, windy and covered in cow pats.’ This was from a man who hesitated before walking on grass in case it ‘couldn’t take his weight and swallowed him whole.’ Obviously, we country folk know that the countryside can be equally warm, dry and delightful. With the right clothing, even those days (and nights) of foul weather can be pleasurable. So, country clothing must be able to either keep you warm and dry, or cool and comfortable. There are numerous walking shops up and down the country that supply this type of clothing – Gore-Tex jackets, fleece pullovers, wicking T-shirts etc. But they are not traditional country clothing.
What is traditional country clothing?
Traditional country clothing uses natural fabrics and styles evolved over generations, most noticeably since the Edwardian era. A quick flick through a countryside or shooting magazine (The Field is best) will give you an idea of what I’m talking about. In there you’ll see all sorts of dress, from full Norfolk suits to a woodsman’s leather waistcoat. The shooting fraternity, especially, have continued the tradition of wearing old-fashioned country clothing. And how very good it looks, too. Such garments use fabrics such as wool and cotton, styled as tweed, moleskin or corduroy; and warm cotton shirts and hats that celebrate the rich heritage of British fashions.
Your own ‘take’ on traditional country clothing
There are many styles of country attire, dependent upon what you intend to do in the country. If shooting is your hobby, especially for driven game, then you might opt to look more dapper than the beaters driving the birds towards you. For this type of activity, there are many fine garments in tweed, some with modern waterproof lining, but they come at a premium. Think nothing of paying £1000 or more on an outfit. This is a flamboyant use of your cash considering the outfit will eventually get wet, muddy or torn by brambles. Driven game shooting, and fine shooting attire, is not for light wallets.
I, and many of the Fiends of the Priory, opt for clothing that is less grandiose than that worn by the shooting elite. Living and working in the country (rather than dressing up for an occasional visit) eases peer pressure to follow fashions and as such one’s attire becomes more relaxed.
As mentioned above, it’s important to know your identity so that you can select the right image to be portrayed to others. For 18 years I worked as an estate gardener, garden designer and nurseryman. I know my place in society. As such, my ideal dress is more aligned to an Edwardian gardener than Lord of the Manor. Throw in my lifelong love of angling and the result is a happy balance between vintage attire (such as high rise trousers, braces, hobnail boots, granddad shirts and smocks) and country clothing (such as tweed jackets, moleskin breeks, wax jackets and green wellies).
Who makes the best country clothing?
If I had unlimited budget and were to select just five suppliers of traditional country clothing then they would be as follows:
- Norfolk jackets and tweed suits: David Saxby
- Everyday wear, including light gardening: Old Town Clothing
- Country wear and waterproofs: Fjallraven, Barbour
- Footwear: William Lennon, Hoggs of Fife
- Headwear: Olney
The reality is that my budget is limited and I have to compromise. As such I have no qualms in searching eBay, charity shops and suppliers of second hand clothing for the right outfits. There are some real bargains to be had. Such is the bonus of deliberately wearing ‘unfashionable’ clothing. However, if I were to select only one supplier of traditional clothing it would be Old Town Clothing.
Are there any rules?
Clothing is a deeply personal choice. So long as you like what you’re wearing then nothing else matters (although blue jeans, baseball caps, jog bottoms and white trainers are an absolute no-no for traditional country wear). My advice is to decide how formal or informal you wish to look, and what era of fashion you can most relate to. Then search the Priory website (and elsewhere) for the right garments and suppliers. It’s a continual and enjoyable quest, where you’ll always be refining your outfits as you discover new garments, tailors and retailers. Vanity? Yes. But why not be proud of who you are?
If you like this blog, then you might like Fine Things, Fennel's Journal No. 8
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